USA SUP Gear Guides

Three Conditions, Four Fins

Linda McCoy — Mon, 11 May 2026 22:20:14 GMT

"Three Conditions, Four Fins" by Denny Parker, NorthEast Region Member

This month’s review will finally talk about fins. Fins are the shoes of your Stand-Up Paddle Board (SUP). Just like the proper shoes will assist you in traversing certain terrain and areas, so too will the proper fin.

Generally, you, as a SUPer will face three conditions on the water:

flat water
open - choppy water
windy - downwind

For each of those conditions, I tested at least one fin, with the exception of open - choppy water.

Note—all fins fit Surf Fin box

Flat Water:

Kokua’s Fast In Anything (FIA) Fin

The Kokua FIA Fin has the shallowest depth of around 7.5” which offers almost no resistance in the water, thus no drag. This is essential in flat water as it amplifies the power of your stroke. I experienced an increase in my overall one-mile speed by at least 15 percent (from 15-minute mile to about 13.25-minute mile).

With its shallow depth, the fin acts like a rudder helping you effortlessly turn your board. One can execute a pivot or step back turn with a smoothness and fluidity rivaling that of pro-SUPers with this fin.

Unfortunately, this fin cannot work well in any other conditions as stability is severely compromised to the point where you feel as though you are paddling without a fin. Such a feeling is unpleasant at best and nerve wracking at worst.
1. Open, Choppy Water:

Bark’s All Condition Fin

The Bark’s All Condition Fin provides decent stability, a slight decrease speed, and allows you to turn your board comfortably. When using this fin, I felt the board glided well and caught bumps and waves with relative ease.

Its 9” depth kept me stable in those conditions, but I experienced a decrease in my overall one-mile speed time around 10 percent (from 15-minute mile to about 16.30-minute mile).

Future’s SUP Triangle Cutaway Fin

The Futures SUP Triangle Cutaway Fin with its 9” depth and 44 square inch surface area is by far the most stable fin in all conditions, but especially for open, choppy water. It handles waves, side chop, boat wakes, and swells with ease. I fear none of those conditions with this fin. It keeps the board so straight that I could paddle on one side for at least 2 miles.

The biggest downsides are you sacrifice speed and agility. I experienced a decrease in my overall one-mile speed time by at least 20 percent (from 15-minute mile to about 18-minute mile).

Finally, I had to take extra strokes when turning the board because the fin felt like an anchor.

Note—this fin is no longer in production.
1. Windy, Downwind: Kokua’s Wizard Fin

3. Windy, Downwind: Kokua’s Wizard Fin

Kokua’s Wizard Fin is made for down winding. It is light, agile, and leans into waves like an Indy Racing Car taking the third turn in the Indianapolis 500.

So, turning your board and riding bumps are a pleasure with this fin. Also, I experienced an increase in my overall one-mile speed due to its responsiveness to those conditions as well as flat water of around 12 percent (from 15-minute mile to about 13.45-minute mile).

The downside is that this fin has minimal stability in choppy water, especially side chop. I leaned extra heavy on my paddle for extra stability and keeping the straight in those conditions.

A Bootie Review

Linda McCoy — Sun, 08 Mar 2026 22:19:09 GMT

"A Bootie Review" by Denny Parker, NorthEast Region Member

While we are transitioning from winter to spring, the water temperatures will remain cold for a while longer and the need to wear booties is essential when Stand Up Paddleboarding to avoid losing the feeling in your feet.

I primarily wear one of two booties: the O’Neil Heat 5mm Round toe or the Solite 8mm custom 2.0. The great news is both booties do a reasonable job of keeping out the cold when dry, but not so much when wet. So, either the soles of your feet or the top of your feet will experience feeling cold when wet depending on which pair you wear.

Note—to mitigate my foot’s exposure to the cold temperatures, I wear NRS Boundary socks in addition with the booties.

The O’Neill Heat 5mm booties fit snugly on your feet and allow you to feel connected to your board because the soles are thinner than the Solelite 8mm booties. Also, the O’Neill Heat booties have an Anti-Flush Shin Strap and Forefoot Strap for extra stability and support. I found the Heel Pull works well in slipping them on and off. Since the soles are thinner, you can feel how cold the water is once you enter it to start a paddle and encounter gentle waves or the occasional wake. The soles are not grooved so you can experience some slippage while on your board, yet you can also walk on your board with ease, and that is the tradeoff. Bottomline, you are going to feel the cold, especially if the water temperature is close to 40 degrees (4.4 Celsius) and below. Therefore the thinner sole may not hold up with extended use.

Conversely, the Solelite 8mm booties offer better sole and cold protection because the majority of the neoprene is concentrated along the sole, heel, and toes. Think of this bootie as encasing your feet in 8mm neoprene. You feel the protection and stability right away, yet you will not feel as connected to your board unlike the O’Neill Heat booties. The Solelite 8mm booties’ Stealth-Loop in the heel helps you get into them but is not particularly helpful in getting out of them. Another drawback is that the top of the booties has less of a concentration of neoprene and thus will not provide much protection from the cold when entering the water to start a paddle or encounter the occasional splash while paddling. Bottomline, these booties are designed for 32 degrees (0 Celsius) and below and you will not feel as connected to your board.

Perfect Winter Paddle Suit

Linda McCoy — Thu, 08 Jan 2026 23:16:09 GMT

“Perfect Winter Paddle Suit” by Denny Parker, NorthEast Region Member

Hi, for those of us who paddle in colder conditions (e.g., 32ºF/ 0ºC or below) in the winter, warmth and staying dry is essential. The optimal option is a drysuit, and a Stand-Up Paddle Board (SUP) specific drysuit is best—enter the Starboard Sprint Drysuit 12 from the Starboard’s Techwear Range.

Recently, I tested the Starboard Sprint Drysuit (SB Sprint Drysuit) and found it is up to the task of keeping me dry and moving fluidly stroke after stroke during my 4 mile/6.4 km paddle. I love the ease of which I can slip into the SB Sprint Drysuit because of its full-front zipper, which zips up to the neck creating a watertight seal.

It is very form-fitting and does not need to be “burped” (squeezing out excess air) like other drysuits. The fit is closer to a wetsuit, but without the skintight constricting feel. The latex cuffs on the wrists and ankles of the SB Sprint Drysuit felt secure and a little tight, but that ensures no water intrusion from an occasional splash or potential dip in the water.

I did a beach start for my paddle which included wading in ice cold
(27ºF/-2ºC) water for a few minutes; it kept the water out, but I could still feel the chill. It has three pockets, two interior and one exterior on the right leg, so your keys, I.D., and other essentials are easy to store and access. One of the best features is its integrated hood and face guard, which came in handy when the wind picked up slightly during my paddle.

It is important to note that unlike wetsuits, drysuits are designed to prevent water intrusion, especially in the case of water immersion, and insulate the wearer from excessive heat loss. While, I did not feel cold, I did feel chilly as the SB Sprint Drysuit does not have much insulation. It is very breathable which means it is not completely windproof. I opted to wear a drysuit liner underneath for additional warmth with the air temperature being around 36ºF/2.2ºC. Finally, the SB Sprint Drysuit Velcro collar is very sticky, and I got my beard caught a couple of times while trying to secure a tight seal under my neck.

Overall, the SB Sprint Drysuit allows me the safety and fluidity needed to paddle in colder conditions during the off-season.

Hydrus Ruckus Flyweight Race Paddle

Linda McCoy — Mon, 01 Sep 2025 22:45:10 GMT

Gear Review - Hydrus Ruckus Flyweight Race Paddle
by Michael Carney, SouthCentral Regional Rep

Hydrus Board Tech has been focused on performance-first designs since day one. Over the last two years, Hydrus has been making it a priority to help grow SUP Racing by creating accessible, affordable, and of course performance-level equipment. They’ve also been sponsoring local races and other paddling events around Idaho and signed on as a Silver level sponsor with USA SUP this year (and are giving away a race board as part of the USA SUP member raffle this December!)

Ruckus Flyweight Race Paddle

I’ve worked closely with Hydrus owner Jason Zawadzki for several years. When he called me one day to get some of my thoughts on race paddles I was ecstatic. The one-piece Hydrus Toughblade has been a fantastic all-around and sprint race paddle for me the last two years, but I’ve always felt it could be better - and so did he!

After dozens and dozens of iterations and tests, Hydrus announced their new Ruckus Flyweight Race paddle early this summer.

Hydrus Ruckus Flyweight Specs:

Blade size (S): 15” x 6.4” ~84sq in

Blade size (L): 15.25” x 7” ~90sq in

Blade rake: 10°
Blade material: 30T prepreg carbon fiber

Shaft: Tapered 30T prepreg carbon fiber 1-piece or 2-piece (single length)

Handle: Molded carbon fiber in a large or small size

Weight: Small Blade, Large handle, 77” - 16.7 oz

Paddle Options

The Ruckus is available with two different blade sizes, two different shaft options, and two different handle sizes.

The Small blade is 6.4” across roughly 82 square inches and the Large blade is 7” across and roughly 87 square inches. Jason encourages people to not get too hung up on the surface area measurements, especially compared to other paddles, because of how this paddle is shaped. More on that in a minute. There’s a double-dihedral concave with tapered edges, and the toe is curved slightly in.

The shaft is made with a slight taper to give it a flex profile that can drive in a sprint, but is comfortable for a distance race. Both options are cut-to-length, but you can order it as either a single piece paddle (lightest option) or as a two piece paddle for easier traveling.

Lastly, Hydrus developed a new handle shape that’s a little larger. Jason swears by it for easing up some of his elbow tendonitis. Compared to a few of my other paddles the large size is about 1/16-1/8" wider front to back. I have smaller hands and found the large size a little odd at first, but had completely forgotten it before I was finished with my warmup. But, they are offering a more traditional “Small” size handle as well.

On the Water

Of course the first thing I did was take the Ruckus (82 sq in) and my Quick Blade UV88 (88 sq in) out on the water for a test. I warmed up and then did alternating half-mile segments out-and-back for four miles on flat water switching between the two paddles.

I kept my cadence the same using a speed coach (40-45 strokes per minute) and kept my heartrate in the same zone (zone 2 with the tail wind and zone 3 with the head wind). There was a little ~5mph breeze, but I kept it evenly on head or at my back, testing each paddle in both conditions multiple times.

The Result: I had the exact same speeds with the two paddles. I averaged 4.5 mph with each paddle throughout the test (including both headwind and tailwind), distance per stroke, stroke rate, and heart rate were all equivalent throughout the test.

Considering the Ruckus is notably smaller in surface area than the UV88, I found that to be incredibly impressive.

But, what I think was most compelling for me was the feel of the Ruckus paddle in the water. It took me a few miles of paddling before I realized it, but I didn’t have a single bad stroke with the Ruckus. No slipping on the catch, no fluttering or wandering side to side during the power phase, and the catch and release were both clean without cavitation or lifting. On the other hand, I do find my UV88 to be less forgiving and will slip at the catch and wander slightly if my stroke isn’t spot-on.

How I use it

The Ruckus (small blade) is now my preferred distance paddle. If I’m paddling 5k or more, I’m going to be on the Ruckus.

The forgiving stroke mechanic, smaller blade, and balance of power and comfort make it a great paddle to use for long distances.

The smaller blade doesn’t work as well for me for sprints and short tech races as it doesn’t have the same maximum power output as my larger bladed paddles, but I’m excited to see how the new large-blade Ruckus does for me in this category.

Value

Hands-down, the Hydrus Ruckus Flyweight provides the best value to performance ratio I’ve ever seen. It’s got an MSRP of $375 - compare that to the $550 MSRP for a Quick Blade UV88. Not only that, but the Ruckus also comes with a padded paddle bag.

As a sponsor of USA SUP, Hydrus is offering a limited time discount for USA SUP members. Use the code “USARUCKUS” to save 10% off the Ruckus through November 15th.

Until next time - Safe Paddling and I’ll see you on the water!

Cut Blade Technology in Paddles

Linda McCoy — Mon, 02 Dec 2024 23:39:07 GMT

"Cut Blade Technology from Oscar Propulsion - A River Literally Runs Through It!" by Linda McCoy

I hear you… a paddle with SLITS CUT IN IT?
How is that supposed to work?
Is it even LEGAL in races?
Won’t that make you SLOWER?

I thought the same thing…

How the heck does it work? There is definitely some science behind it. The slits reduce drag and turbulence by letting some of the water flow THROUGH the paddle face instead of around it like traditional paddles. The slits also minimize turbulence and the formation of vortices behind the blade. This results in a more stable flow of water. The controlled passage of water maintains a high-pressure difference between the front and back surfaces of the blade, which is crucial for driving force.

The reduced drag lowers the physical strain on your body, especially the shoulders, elbows, and wrists. This helps avoid injuries related to overuse. The efficiency gained with each stroke allows for longer periods without tiring, so you can keep a high pace for a longer period of time. You are able to maintain a steady pace for a much longer length of time.

The cuts in the blade help distribute force on the paddle more evenly, so there is less cavitation on the blade (aka blade flutter). This results is smoother, more controlled paddling. It also allows for quicker, more precise movements, which are very beneficial in a sprint or tech race!

Is it LEGAL? Yes! It is ICF approved!

What about speed and endurance? I tested it in a sprint and on a 5k with NO decrease in my speed. I also used it to paddle in the ChattaJack for my fifth year and I was WAY less fatigued afterwards. My shoulders were not “on fire” like they usually are.

I’ve really enjoyed testing out the newest cut blade paddle technology from Oscar Propulsion. It has really made a difference in my endurance and maneuverability in my paddle stroke. At first it felt a bit odd to have less resistance from the paddle blade, but once I was accustomed to the movement of the blade, I am totally hooked! I use the Oscar Propulsion enhanced paddle as my daily training paddle. I highly recommend this technology!

How can you get one? Check out https://oscarpropulsion.com/sport/ to read more about the technology and the retailers that are offering this technology. If you can’t find one, ask your favorite retailer to investigate it or contact sport@oscarpropulsion.com

Inflatable SUP Racing

Linda McCoy — Fri, 01 Nov 2024 22:42:55 GMT

Modern, inflatable race boards can hold their own in a competitive environment and make SUP racing more accessible.

An opinion piece by Mike Carney – SouthCentral Region Member

The Problem

SUP racing has declined in participation in recent years despite an increase in paddle board sales. It’s not difficult to understand why. While stand up paddle boarding is easy for new participants to start in the recreational space, there is a huge barrier for paddlers to take the next step into racing. Race-curious paddlers often feel that the only way to compete is with expensive, fragile, hard-to-find boards, that are more difficult to try before buying, to store, and to transport.

These factors make SUP racing intimidating and prohibitive for new racers.

Modern inflatable race boards can hold their own in a competitive environment and make SUP racing more accessible.

One Part of the Solution

Making SUP racing more accessible opens an invitation to new participants. We need a bridge between the recreational paddling community and the competitive paddling world, and Inflatable SUP racing offers one solution.

A competitive inflatable race division can encourage additional participation both from new racers and experienced racers who travel long distances. While inflatables are allowed to compete in most races, it is rarely promoted as an option. By giving inflatable racers their own category, the field becomes both competitive and accessible.

Inflatable Racing Viability and Benefits

Modern high-quality inflatable race boards from brands like Starboard, Red Paddle Co, Hydrus Board Tech, NSP, and others are high performance race boards. New paddle board racers can purchase one for a fraction of the cost of a carbon fiber SUP, get it delivered anywhere in the country (or world), and easily transport it wherever they choose to paddle without worry of damage or complicated logistics.

After a significant amount of testing between multiple boards I’ve moved from racing on my carbon fiber board to exclusively using an inflatable paddle board this year. I had no reduction in speed or race results when I made the switch, and my performance has continued to improve throughout the season.

But I’m not the only one who’s found inflatable boards to be competitive and a great way to increase participation. Christian Andersen placed second at this spring’s APP India Paddle Festival on an NSP inflatable race board against competitors on carbon race SUPs. The ICF has had an inflatable distance race for years, and GB SUP have a well-supported inflatable race division as well.

Using an inflatable race board has also made it far easier and less stressful to participate in different events. I get to use my own, familiar, equipment rather than scrambling to find a loaner board for a far-away race. Most of us won’t deviate from our pre-race breakfast, so why do we find it okay to rely on unknown equipment?

Inflatable race divisions also open the door for more sponsorships and brand involvement by providing a small fleet of racing boards shipped directly, and cheaply, to any event. That’s not feasible with hard boards.

The Downside of Inflatable Racing

I will freely admit there are still some issues with inflatable race boards when compared directly to hard boards. It’s not currently possible to make an effective inflatable race board narrower than about 23”. While the largest segment of hard race board designs is still the 23-24” range, there is an arms race in hard boards pushing top-level competition onto increasingly narrower shapes. In the grand scheme of things, the narrowest board is going to be the fastest, putting the design limitation of inflatables at a disadvantage at the highest level.

Inflatable boards also have a disadvantage in extremely short sprint races. While they are more rigid than ever, the small amount of remaining flex makes a large difference in these short powerhouse events, but not in the longer technical and distance races.

These are comparative shortfalls between the two constructions. But offering a dedicated competitive inflatable category eliminates any disadvantage.

A Two-Part Challenge to Increase Accessibility

I have two challenges for anyone reading this article who wants to help increase the accessibility of SUP racing.

1) If you are an international, national, or local race organizer, add a competitive, all ages, inflatable race division to your events. There’s very little cost associated with it (ordering a few more medals), and the same logistics as any other category. As this category grows over time, you can add age divisions as necessary.

Don’t water down an event just because it’s for inflatable boards only. If the Open Distance race is 10K, the Inflatable Distance race should be 10K. Start them at the same time! I bet you’ll see a much closer competition between the two than you think. Add heats for your technical races, and even sprint races if you have them.

But most importantly - hype it up! If you treat an inflatable race like a consolation, it will never have the ability to increase participation.

2) If you are a racer, give an inflatable race SUP a try. Use it as a training tool, pick one up for traveling to distant races, and do your own comparisons. If you don’t like it, then you’ve got a backup/training/travel/loaner board. If you do, then you’ve got a way to compete worldwide without equipment concerns.

But most importantly - hype up the inflatable racers around you! Rising tides lift all SUPs. Support your community and encourage everyone. Gatekeeping will only hurt an activity, especially one with such a small community like SUP racing.

Let’s Do This!

If we want to grow the sport of SUP racing, we need to grow our community. We do that by removing accessibility barriers and inviting a more diverse group of paddlers to join us. Inflatable race SUPs offer solutions to both of those tasks. Whether you are an organizer, a racer, or both, you can support the growth of SUP racing by supporting the growth of inflatable racing.

Ask your local race organizers to add a competitive inflatable category. It’s such a simple solution, but it could completely change the face of racing. It allows new racers to join the fray and traveling to far flung events suddenly becomes accessible and stress free. Just get on that plane with your board and go!

Mike is an ACA L3 SUP Instructor and a contributor to SUPBoardGuide.com and InflatableBoarder.com

USA SUP Guidance on Inflatables (iSUP)

Linda McCoy — Wed, 24 Jul 2024 22:35:42 GMT

Unless you live on or very near water, chances are your first board is going to be inflatable (iSUP). Theres a lot to like about inflatables, but most of those advantages have little to do with how the board performs on the water, and rather have more to do with factors off the water. Inflatables are generally easier to transport and store. Inflatables can also be more impact resistant and less likely to need repair after being bumped into hard objects like rocks. The tradeoff here is of course punctures. With that said, this article is not intended to help you decide which is better, hardboard or iSUP, and rather focuses on what to look for if you already have your heart set on an iSUP.

Better on the water than on shore

Recently a major grocery store chain was selling an iSUP for less than $200. Everywhere you turn there are boards available for under $400. The majority of them aren’t very good. However they will float and give the user the experience of paddleboarding. A safe day on the water, beats sitting on shore any day, but you might not fall in love with SUP on your new bargain board. Cheap iSUPs are going to be generally less stable and may be built with questionable safety. Many inexpensive boards can suffer from catastrophic failures, typically with the seams of the boards. This can be a problem if the user experiences this type of failure in conditions or farther from shore than is a comfortable swim, which leads to some safety advice…

iSUP Specific Safety

Because the nature of an inflatable board is that it depends on air being contained within the board, there are a couple safety recommendations specific to iSUPs that should be followed:

Wear a Personal Floatation Device (PFD) – while you are only legally required to have a PFD onboard your craft outside the surf zone and/or swimming areas, it is strongly recommended you wear it as opposed to having it strapped to the deck. In the event of deflation event, you likely will not have time to put the vest on before the board sinks, and a vest is very difficult to put on once you are already in the water.
Use a coiled quick release leash attached at your waist – the higher profile of an iSUP means the wind can catch the board and carry it away from you faster than you can swim after it. A leash keeps the board from getting away and having it attached at your waist makes it easier to retrieve your board and get back on. However, In the case of rapid deflation, it’s important to have a quick way of disconnecting from a deflated board that can get snagged on obstructions or in the worst case, become an anchor.
Consider models with secondary floatation – while not common, especially at lower price points, boards with more than one air chamber add a considerable margin of safety if one chamber loses air.

Board Size and Quality

Most inexpensive boards are sold in the 10’-10’6” range, this is a great length for having a board that turns easily, but maybe more difficult to paddle in a straight line. The problem gets worse the taller the paddler gets. Paddlers taller than 5’6” will have an easier time paddling straight on a board that’s greater than 11’.

Width:

Wide (32-36 inches): Offers stability, suitable for beginners, yoga, and fishing.
Medium (30-32 inches): Balances stability and speed, ideal for recreational use.
Narrow (less than 30 inches): Enhances speed and performance.

Materials: High-quality iSUPs are made from military-grade PVC and have multiple layers for enhanced durability. Drop-stitch construction is essential for rigidity when the board is inflated. Also look for fusion welded rails, though many brands advertise this yet have repeated seam failures

Weight Capacity: Ensure the board can support your weight, including any gear you plan to carry, including dogs and children. Just because I board is rated for 300 pounds does NOT mean you should use it at or near that weight. That is a failure rating, it means it will float at that capacity, but won’t necessarily perform as designed at that capacity. Shoot for a board where you and anything or anyone else you’re carrying, falls within 60-80% of that max rating.

Air Pressure Capacity (psi): Boards designed for 15psi or less are going to be less stiff, and less stable than boards with greater air pressure capacity. iSUPs should always be inflated to its recommended pressure or within 1psi of its max rating with a reliable pressure gauge and monitored periodically throughout the day, especially when exposed to sunlight. Boards left in the hot sun and over-inflated boards can fail dramatically.

Evaluate the Accessories

Pump: Most iSUPs come with a 2-stage hand pump. However, an electric pump can save time and effort and is usually a worthwhile upgrade.

Paddle: Consider if the board includes an adjustable, lightweight paddle. Carbon fiber paddles are lighter and more efficient. If possible, skip the “free” included paddle in favor of a lighter paddle that comes in different blade sizes more suited to your height and weight.

Leash: A safety leash is essential to keep the board attached to you if you fall off. USA SUP strongly recommends a quick release type leash attached at the waist.

Backpack: A good quality backpack makes transporting your iSUP easier. Ensure its durable and comfortable to carry.

Fin Setup: Most inexpensive iSUPs come with a three-fin setup. However, unless you are surfing, or operating in very shallow water, A single, larger, center mounted fin offers the best balance between stability, speed, and maneuverability. “Standard” or FCS fin boxes are preferred over proprietary “click-in” fin boxes that will only accept fins made by that manufacturer.

Brand Reputation, Reviews, and Recommendations

Ever hear the phrase “Race on Sunday, Sell on Monday”? It refers to the automotive industry and implies that the knowledge gained from racing and the reputation of winning, results in cars in cars that people want to buy. The same advice is mostly compatible for paddleboards as well. Brands that invest in making fast raceboards, generally make pretty good iSUPs and sometimes even make race-specific iSUP boards. These brands have made investments in ways to make iSUPs stiffer and thus more stable and efficient.

Research online reviews and ask for recommendations from experienced paddlers. User feedback can provide valuable insights into the board’s performance and durability. However, beware of reccomendations from folks who don’t have much experience who want to validate their own purchase.

Shops can be a great source of good advice but tend to only carry products from more well-known manufacturers with retail channels. Expect to be steered towards a brand that they carry, and consequently, feel good about supporting after the sale. Which can be a really good thing, but you won’t find many if any direct-to-consumer brands.

Try Before You Buy

If possible, test different boards to find the one that feels most comfortable and suits your paddling style. Many retailers offer demo days or rentals. Even if you’re not a racer, showing up at a racing event will provide opportunities to ask questions and maybe even try a few things. Just don’t expect someone to loan you a 21” wide carbon fiber rocket ship unless they can tell you’re experienced enough to handle it.

Beware of paddleboard rental concessions, the boards they offer for rent frequently put durability ahead of performance.

Be a Savvy Shopper

It is not uncommon for top tier brands to have sales on iSUPs. Sometimes these sales can be as high as 50% for previous model years and close out models. Sometimes you need to be a little patient, shop in the off-season, and it doesn’t hurt to sign up for manufacturer’s email lists.

Buying used is always an option, however, most iSUPs will only last 3-5 years, you may want to avoid a used board that has already had a chunk taken out of its lifespan. On the other hand, “demo” boards are typically only used for one or two events and can be had at a significant discount, especially if you have cash in hand at a public event.

Conclusion

There are a lot of factors when choosing an iSUP, and it can be intimidating. Like many things, especially when it comes to sporting goods, you don’t always get what you pay for, but wherever you end up, a safe day on the water beats a day on the shore kicking rocks. In summary:

Prioritize safety when making your choice and leave enough room in the budget for a good leash and PFD.
You might need a bigger board than you think, consider your height, weight, and gear/children/dogs you want to paddle with and don’t exceed 80% of a board’s max weight rating.
Boards with higher max PSI ratings will be stiffer and more stable.
Consider getting an electronic pump.
Consider buying your paddle separately and upgrading from the start
Board makers that have race models are more likely to be higher quality and performance.
Try as many boards as you can before you buy.
Be a smart shopper and look for season end and demo deals.
Have fun! Welcome to the most fun and inclusive sport on the planet!

Bottom line is that you should buy the best board you can afford, but the $200 grocery store board is better than nothing if you don’t skimp on the safety equipment. Spending more can definitely enhance the experience and make it easier to enjoy the sport.